Sewing-machine.



Patented Aug. 29, i899.

F. A. MILLS.

SEWING MACHINE. (Applismo med me. 1e, 1898 6 Sheets-Sheet I.

(No Model.)

@ll-lui" W/TNE SSE S T E mams varias co., Puorourno.. wnsmN No'. 632,056. Patented Aug. 2 9, |899.

F. A. mLLs.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Dec. 19, 1898.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No' Model.)

ORA/EVS /NvE/vro W/TNESSES No. 632,056. Patented Aug. 29, |899.

l FJA. MILLS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Dex:A 19, IBQBJ (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

LAL...

W/TNESSES /N VE N TOH fm: Ncnms mens co. PHoTo'LlrHa.. wnsnms-rom D.

No. 632,056. Patented Aug. 29, |899.

F. A. MILLS. SEWING MACHINE..

(Application filed Dec. 19, 1898,)

6 Sheets-Sheet 4 (No Model.)

` l/v VEA/70H .fj/2.@ M. M

Patented Aug. 29, |999.

F. A. MILLS.

SEWING MACHINE.

. (Application filed Dec. 19, 1898.) (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 5- 'WITNESSESJ VEAITOH 6W5/aw y WK No. 632,956. Patented A-ug. 29, |899.

F. A. MILLS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Dec. 19, 189B.)

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 6,

w/TNESSES /NVENTH @Q A Nm Y UNITED STATES PATENT EErcE.

FRANCIS ARTHUR HILLS, OF METHUEN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, 'IO THE MILLS SEVING MACHINE COMPANY, OF

MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 632,056, dated August 29, 1899.

Application filed December 19,1898. Serial No. 699,635. (No model.)

Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification. Y The machine to which my improvement relates is for sewing turn-shoes and welts tov uppers and inner soles for welted work and,

wherein the edge of the upper and the upper and the welt are sewed to a portion of the sole termed the between substance, which is formed by cutting a channel around the edge.

of the sole. In sewing the upper and the welt to this between substance the thread is pulled into the bottom of the channel and against the between su bstance of the sole, and it is therefore liableito be pulled through the substance and to break or tear away that part of the shoe-sole against which the upper and welt are sewed during the operation of tightening the preceding stitch. This breaking and tearing away of the between substance is especially liable to occur in using poor, spongy, and very dry sole material and necessarily destroys that part of the sole to which the upper and welt are to be sewed.

My improvement is directed to provision whereby the between substance of the sole is protected from the strain or pulling force applied to the thread against the bottom of the between substance during the formation and tightening of the stitches in a way to prevent the breaking and tearing away of the between substance. This provision consists ofa finger device arranged to overhang the sole-surface in front of and at the channel of the sole and that has no movement whatever upon or with the thread at any time, but has a movement to and from a steady-point on the top of the sole, close to and in front of the solechannel, to receive and to hold the thread away fromthe bottom of the channel or between substance of the sole while the preceding stitch is being tightened. This provision gives the advantage of using comparatively cheap, poor, and spongy stock in the' shoe-sole without impair-i2 g the effectiveness of the stitching of thetfpper or upper and welt to thc sole.

The following description, read in connection with the drawings, will enable-any person skilled in the art to which my invention relates to understand and to practice it in Various modifications, some of which are shown as being included in the scope and terms of claims which specifically designate and em'- brace my invention.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 represents the left side of a complete sewing-machine embodying my invention, and Fig. 2 shows the right side of the machine. In these two figures the thread is seen as being held by the finger S in front of the sole-channel away from the between substance while the preceding stitch is being tightened by the stitch-tightening means. Fig. 3 shows in perspective that part orv head of the machine which contains the stitch-forming mechanism and in which `my improvement of a threadholding finger is seen in the posit-ion it occupies when ready to move down to the position to receive and hold the thread leading from the looper to the channel of the shoe-sole as the looper moves to thread the needle. Fig.

4 shows a like View, the thread-holding finger having been moved down in front of the channel to the position in which it is ready to receive the thread leading from the looper to the channel of the sole to hold it from being pulled into the channel by the needle or stitchtightening means against the bottom of the channel or between substance of the sole. Fig. et shows a like View, the thread-holding finger being in the same position, the thread having been placed against it by the looper when the latter moves to encircle and place the thread in the barb of the needle which pulls the thread through the Work and around the finger 8. Fig. 5 is a like view in which the thread-holding finger is seen as having received and holding the thread while being pulled through the work by the needle in the formation of a stitch and while the preceding stitch is being tightened, as in Figs. l and 2. Fig. 6 shows a partial front View of the machine, wherein the thread-holding finger is better seen as holding the thread during the tightening of' the preceding stitch in Fig. 5; and Fig. 7 is a view like Fig. 3, but looking at the other side of the machine the bet- IOO ter to see the inger in its raised position, having let go the thread after the preceding stitch has been tightened and having allowed that portion of the thread which was held by the iinger to be pulled into the channel against the between substance by the stitch-tightening means having a measured stroke equal to the amount of thread in the loop 10, so that there will be no strain or pulling action of the thread by the stitch-tightening means upon the between substance such as would tend to injure it by such operation. Fig. 7a shows a like view of my improvement in which the stitch is tightened by a take-up pulling upon the supply end of the thread.

` These several gures show'the thread-holdin g finger 8 arranged to move down and up in front ofand at the channel of the sole. Figs. 8, 9, and l0 show modifications of my invention in which the thread-holding nger is arranged to have a movement parallel with the movement of the needle and in which the finger moves outward, inward, and downward toward the shoe to a position in front of the channel to receive and to hold the thread at the opening of the channel for the purpose stated, while in Fig. ll a modication is shown wherein the finger is caused to move parallel with the movement of the needle, but toward the machine and. downward to a position in front of the channel to receive and hold the thread leading from the looper to the channel in the same way and for the same purpose, the thread being shown as so held. In these several arrangements the thread-holding finger has identical movements, so that the same form of cam and the same arrangement of pivotal connection for thev iinger actuates either of the lingers with an up-and-down movement in relation to the sole and always in front of the channel; and my invention is adapted for use in shoe-sewing machines having stitch-tightening mechanism of any construction and mode of operation.

In the illustrations my invention is shown as being used with three forms of stitch-tightening means, as in Figs. l, 5, and ll. The needle is the means for tightening the stitches,

while in Fig. 2 a finger is the means for tight-- ening the stitches,arran ged to engage and pull upon the loop drawn out by the needle and away from the needle, the third means being shown in Fig. 7a as a take-up pulling upon the supply end of the thread around the shank of the needle while the latter is in the Work.

The frame structure wherein is mounted the operating parts may be of any suitable construction and is mounted and supported for use on a standard in the usual way.

In the construction shown the stitch-forming mechanism is mounted in what I term a sewing-head l, suitably mounted upon the frame structure. The supports for the Work are indicated by 2, which is the sliderest, and by 3, which is the back gage.

4 is the channel-feed device and guide for the shoe. v

5 is the tension device.

6 is the looper device, and 7 is the needle.

The several parts and devices may be of the particular construction and arrangement shown or of any suitable arrangement and con-struction and of any mode of operation compatible with the employment therewith of my invention.

In carrying out my invention I providev a finger device 8, pivotally mounted on the lower part of the sewing-head and in such relation to the looper device that the acting end of said finger will overhang the shoe sole in front of and at the lip of the channel when the shoe is supported in position by the attendant for work, so that when performing its function of holding the thread the end of the finger will rest on top of the sole at the opening of the channel. The iinger for this purpose has an up-and-down movement in relation to the shoe-sole, such movement serving to place the end of the iinger in position to receive the thread leading from the looper to the channel and hold it during the formation of a stitch, and so thatit cannot be drawn while being held into the channel against the between substance, and thereby prevent it from being cut through or torn away by the pulling action of the stitch-tightening means upon the thread during the tightening of the stitches. In Figs. l to 7 this thread-holding finger is pivoted at 9 to the front wallv of the sewing-head, so as to hang over the top parallel with the feed of the shoe and with its thread-holding end at the left side of the path of the needle, as in Figs. 4 and wherein the needle is seen as operating between this iinger and the channel-guide or feed device 4, so that after the looper has placed the thread on the needle and the needle has pulled the thread through the work to form a stitch and places the thread on the iinger just at the opening of the channel the thread is held on said finger in the form of a loop l0 while the preceding stitch is being tightened, as seen in Figs. 1, 2, 5, (5, and 11. After the preceding stitch has beenA tightened this looppart lO is released from the finger 8 and drawn into the sole-channel in place against the between substance by a further pull upon the thread of the stitch-tightening means equal to the amount of thread in the loop 10, as in Fig. 7. The other end of ythis thread-holding finger is preferably jointed by a double-joint 15, as in Figs. l and 6, to a rod l1, which at its upper end is connected to a lever 12, pivoted on the side of the sewing-head and having engagement with a groove-cam 13, so formed and timed as to cause the nger 8 to move in position to receive. and hold the thread leading from the looper to the channel of the sole or last-formed stitch, while the thread is being drawn inwaril toward the channel by the needle or stitch'fightening means.

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This is the novel feature and function of this finger, because it thereby prevents the thread from being pulled into the channel against the between substance of the shoe-sole at the time a stitch is being formed and the preceding stitch is being tightened. This arrangement of the finger causes it to operate vertically or at right angles to .the movement of the needle, as in Figs. 8, 4, and 6, locates the finger on the channel side of the work, and gives the advantage ofafree and unobstructed manipulation of that part of the thread which leads from the looper to the channel of the sole in being placed on the finger.

In the modifications of my invention, as shown in Figs. 8, 9, and l0, the thread-holding finger is mounted on a rock-stud, so as to have a movement up and down parallel with the movement of the needle and to receive the thread leading from the looper to the solechannel on the outward and downward movement of said finger 8 toward the operator and to' let go the thread on its inward and upward movement toward the machine after the preceding stitch has been tightened on the finger. In Fig. 8 the finger is seen in its raised position and in Fig. 9 in its down position and has the loop, and in Fig. 10 it will be seen as having been pulled up or lifted ont the loop 10. In the modification shown in Fig. 11 the thread-holding finger is shown as mounted so as to have a movement up and down parallel with the movement of the needle to receive the thread leading from the looper to the last-formed stitch in the work on the inward and downward movement of said finger toward the machine and to let go the thread on its outward and upward movement toward the operator. In this figure the finger is seen as having moved inward and received and holding the loop.

In whatever direction this finger is moved it has the same function and is actuated in the same time and by the same cam-path and lever connections. These connections give the finger a positively-controlled movement in manipulating the thread to hold it at the channel-opening, and they must be connected to actuate the finger so that it will receive the thread on its outer side, as seen in Figs. 1 to l0, or on its inner side, as seen in Fig. 11. These connections I have not shown in Figs. 8, 9, and 10, because such connections, however arranged, will not change the movement of the finger.

I provide for adjusting the extent of that movement of the linger which carries it away from the thread and shoe-sole so that under all differences in the work the thread-sustaining end of the finger will be out of the way to give clearance to the feed of the shoe and of the thread leading from the looper to the solechannel at the time the shoe is being fed, so that the work and thread can pass under and free of the finger. The means for this adjustment is shown in Fig. 1.

The farther away from the fulcruin 14 of.

the cam-actuated lever 12 is set the connecting-arm 1l. of the finger-arm with said'lever, the farther will move the end of the finger from the thread and from the work to give clearance for the feed of the shoe; but it will be understood by such adjustment that the finger will not be altered in the extent of its movement toward the thread and the sole of the shoe in position to receive and to hold the thread, as the extent of such movement is always the same, so as to stop the end of the finger at the same point of descent in front of the channel. This unchangeable movement of the finger also causes its end to come in contact with the surface of the sole in its movement to engage the thread, and thereby acts as a steady-point for the shoe and serves to hold the sole down on the last during the pulling action of the thread in tightening the stitches, and which pulling action has a tendency to lift the sole from the last. This result is obtained because in changing the rod 1l into the holes of the lever 12 to change the adjustment in the lift of the finger 8 suoli change is made on the are of a circle in said holes struck from the joint 15, where said rod 11 connects with the arm 16 of said finger when said finger is resting upon the shoe-sole. Therefore the adjustment of the rod in any one of the holes 21 farther from the fulcrum of the lever will cause the acting end of the finger to move farther from the surface of the sole only; but such adjustment will not change the position to which the finger moves in front of the channel of the sole to receive the thread placed against it by the looper' and needle. The rod 11 is connected to the finger-arm 16 by a double-joint link 22 to allow said rod to be swung at its upper end in adjusting it in the holes of the lever and to providea joint connection of said rod with the arm of thel finger 8, as seen in Figs. 1 and 6.

Referringto the stitch-tightening-finger device 19, (shown in Fig. 2,) it is in the position when moved to tighten the preceding stitch and which the cam part 17 effects by acting on the lever 27 to pull the stitch-tightening finger 19 up into the loop and pull it back of the needle, while that part of the cam which is central between 17 and 18 (shown a little I nearer to its center) acts to lower the roll end of said lever to cause the stitch-tightening finger 19 to slacken the threa'd, and thereby allow the finger 8 to easily pullout of the loop 10, while that part of the cam which is a little farther from its center acts to raise the roll end of said lever a little higher, and thus cause the said finger 19 to be moved and to pull the loop farther back to a positive measuredv distance to manipulate the part 10 of the loop that was held by the finger to draw it into the channel against the between substance, and thereby simply set the stitch to be tightened in the formation of the next stitch. The otherportions of the cam act to move the finger down to slacken the thread IOS IIO

to allow the shoe to be fed and to move the finger 19 to give up the loop in the formation ofthe next stitch and cause a rest to the finger 19 to hold it down to clear the Way for the needle-carrier to allow the needle to get the thread given to it by the looper, and which is its normal position to again engage the loop. This stitch-tightening finger is located on the needle side of the work and is pivotally mounted on the sewing-head at the rear of the needle.

The means for tightening the stitch may be the needle, in the well-known way, as seen in Figs. 1, 5, and 1l, or it may be the finger 19, arranged and adapted to enter and pull upon the loop drawn out by the needle, as seen in Fig. 2. When such stitch-tightening finger is used, the loop is opened for the entrance of the tightening-finger, and, as seen in this figure, a loop-opening finger 2b is arranged to open the loop on the needle for that purpose; or for tightening the stitch a take-up of any suitable construction may be used to pull on the supply end of the thread around the shank of the needle While the latter is in the work, as in Fig. 7a; but whatever stitch-tightening means may be used, after it has performed its function of tightening the stitches around the finger 8 it will have to have the function of a further pull, as I have stated, for the purpose of pulling into the channel that part of the loop 10 of the thread that was held by the finger away from the between substance during the tightening of the preceding stitch around the finger and then released by it. This part of the loop referred to as having been held and released by the finger to be taken up and set in the channel against the between substance after the preceding stitch has been'tightened, as seen in Fig. 10.

'Ihe operation of the finger in its function of preventing the thread from being pulled into the channel and against the between substance of the sole during the formation of and the tightening of the stitches and in the relation of the function of said finger to the stitch-tightening mechanism is as follows: The starting-point of the thread-holding finger is seen in Fig. 3 in its raised position, ready to move down in position to receive the thread as it is carried toward and placed on it by the looper and needle. This position of the finger is controlled by the highest part 24 of the cam 13. In this position of the iinger and looper the needle is in its full backward position, and this is the position of these parts at the commencementof the formation of a stitch. Moving from the starting-point the finger is caused by the cam-path to assume a position in front of the channel to re# ceive and to hold the thread, as in Figs. 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6. This position of the finger is controlled by the lowest part 23 of the cam 13, and during this movement the needle has moved forward through the between substance of the sole and the looper has slightly moved to place the thread against the finger,

as in Fig. 4. From this position of the parts the looper moves to place the thread on the needle, as in Fig. 4", and the latter then pulls the loop through the work and at the same time pulls the thread against and around the finger to form and to tighten the stitches, as seen in Figs. 2, 5, and 6. In these figures the function of the finger is seen as being operative when stationary in the position to hold the loop when it is around the finger, and this is the only position of the linger in which it has its function of preventing the thread from being pulled into the channel and against the between substance, which is during the formation of a stitch and the tightening of the preceding stitch. The preceding stitch having been now tightened while the thread was on the finger as a fixed support for it, (instead of against the between substance of the sole,) the finger moves out of the loop, as in Figs. 'Fand 10, leaving the loop part l0, which had been held by the finger, free to be pulled into the channel against the between substance and completing the formation of the stitch, as in Fig. 7. This loop part 10 is a positively-measured length of thread and is pulled into the channel, as stated, by the stitch-tightening means; but it must be understood that in pulling this measured length of thread' against the between substance there will be no strain or pulling action of the thread against the between substance such as is required to tighten astitch, because the stitch-tightening means has only a sufficient movement-that is, a given stroke equal to the amount of thread in the loop 10-so as to manipulate this measured length of thread against the between substance of the shoc-sole,without placing upon it a stitchtightenng function. From the position of the parts shown in Fig. 7 the shoe is then fed for the next stitch, and the stitch-forming parts and the thread-holding finger will be moved to the position seen in Fig. 3, which is the starting-point.

The cam-groove 13 for actuating the linger is shown in Fig. 1 in position in which the raised part 24 is just about to act on the le- IOO IIC

ver 12 so as to lift the iinger from the loop,

the stitch having been formed on the finger 8 and the preceding stitch having been tightened around the finger 8 instead of aga-inst the between substanceof the shoe-sole. The concentric cani-raised part 24 acts to hold the finger at rest out ofthe loop, and this concentric part terminates in the part which acts to cause the linger to move to the down posi tion to receive and to hold the thread, while the lowest or that part of the cam-groove 23 nearest its center acts to hold the finger at rest in position to receive and to hold the thread during the formation and tightening of the stitches.

While I have described and illustrated what I believe to be the best meansnow known to me for carrying out my invention, I do not wish to be understood asfl'imiting myself to the construction and different arrangements shown and described, as it is evident that variations and other modifications may be made which would properly fall within the scope of my claims and the invention embodied therein.

I claim as my improvement;

l. In a shoe-sewing machine wherein the thread is pulled into the sole-channel against the between substance, the combination with the feeding and the work-supporting devices, the needle and the looper, of a protector for the between substance of the shoe-sole consisting of a finger pivotally supported above the work-support and depending into position to operate on the upper face of the sole in front of the channel whereby to receive and hold the thread in front of the channel and prevent it from being drawn therein while the preceding stitch is being tightened, and means for actuating said finger.

2. In a shoe-sewing machine wherein the thread is pulled in to the sole-channel against the between substance, the combination of feedingand work-supporting devices, a hookneedle and a looper, with a finger located and arranged on the channel side of the sole and depending into position adjacent the channel-lip, and means whereby said finger is caused to move up and down in front of the open side of the channel, for the purpose stated.

3. In ashoe-sewing machine of the character described, the combination of the backgage, a channel-feed device, a hook-needle and a looper, with a finger located and arranged on the channel side of the sole and depending into position adjacent the channellip, means whereby the finger is caused to move vertically in front of the open side of the channel, and means for adjusting the eX- tent of the ascent of the finger in relation to the surface of the sole to give clearance for the feed of the work vand for the passage of the thread under the finger into the channel.

4. In a shoe-sewing machine and in combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a hook-needle and a looper, of a finger pivotally mounted and arranged to overhang the shoe-sole in front of the channel therein, means for adjusting the finger consisting of a link pivoted to an arm of the finger, a rod pivoted to the other end of said link, said pivots being at right angles to each other and a cam-actuated lever having an arm to which said rod is pivotally connected and provided with holes arranged in the arc of a circle struck from the coupling-joint l5 whereby to cause the acting end of said finger to be adj listed to move more or less away from the top of the sole without changing the extent of the movement of the finger toward the sole, substantially as described.

5. In a 'sewing-machine, the combination with a channel-feed and work-supporting devices, the needle and the looper, of a protector for the channel between substance, consisting of a finger pivotally mounted constructed and arranged to have a movement toward and into contact with the face of the sole to forrn a steady-point on the surface thereof, to receive, to hold and to release the thread at the open side of the channel, and means for actuating said nger.

6. In a shoe-sewing machine wherein the thread is pulled into the sole-channel against the between substance, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a hookneedle and a looper, of a finger device pivotally mounted and constructed and arranged to overhang the sole at right angles to the path of the needle, with its acting end in front of the channel, and means for actuating the finger wherebyits acting endA is positively held in contact with the shoe-sole at the time the looper is moving forward to thread the needle, and the thread is held to protect the between substance in the way stated.

7. In a machine for sewing channeled shoe- Soles and in combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a hook-needle and a looper', of a finger device arranged Aat the front of the frame to overhang the shoe-sole in front of the channel at one side of the channel-guide, means for actuating the finger whereby it is caused to have a vertical movement in front of the open side of the channel, and means for tightening the stitch operating to pull the thread-around said finger when it is down for protecting the between substance and to give a furtherpull on the thread when released from the finger to pull that part of the thread released by the finger into the channel.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed this specification this 29th day of October,l A. D. 1898.

FRANCIS ARTHUR MILLS.

Witnesses:

GUY- I-I. JOHNSON, BURR N. EDWARDS.

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